Last fall I bought a larger river raft. My old 13.5′ NRS from 1987 was no longer the right size for myself, Kelsi, and my growing boys. I picked up a 16′ boat that had more than enough room for the family.
My project over the winter was designing a frame for the boat, and setting it up for a multi-day river expedition. I drank a few cold ones and did some measuring and designed a nice 5 bay frame out of schedule 40 aluminum and some speed rail fittings used for handrails. I also built some decks for walking on out of some stuff called Polymax. It is used for dog pens and it easily cut with a handsaw or a grinder.
In January and February I applied for all the classic western rivers in the United States. Middle Fork of the Slamon River, Main Salmon river, Grand Canyon, Yampa River, Gates of Lodore on the Green River, Desolation Canyon on the Green River. In March the rejections started coming fast and furious. I didn’t win a permit on ANY river….
I had done my research though and scored a Desolation Canyon permit during the cancellation period after permits were issued. I actually picked up the permit while sitting at a pool on vacation in Mexico…go figure
I spent the better part of the spring finalizing people and the organization of my boat. I had initially cast a wide net of people to go, but alas, life sometimes gets in the way of the best laid plans of mice and men. People dropped out and eventually it was a core group of three that were committed. Me, Johnny (cousin),and my great college friend Joel. We had 2 rafts and were down to float the 84 miles of the canyon no matter what.
May, June and July took forever, despite some amazing time with friends and family on camping, fishing, & hiking trips. Finally the end of July neared and I began the final preparations. I knew it was going to be hot, so I borrowed a great shade structure from a college friend. I got a used outboard motor to push out the 1st 25 miles of flat water. I started making massive ice blocks to keep the food cold. I even made a few meals that we’d be having on the river. Throughout the trip planning stage, we had kept a great google spreadsheet of the meals, gear, costs. I suggest doing this for all future trips.
On July 26th we left my house in Loveland and drove to Johnny’s house in the mountains. There, we organized food supplies and coolers for different days on the river. The, we hit the road. Johnny suggested a nice lunch at Moe’s in Eagle, CO. We then turned north at Rifle and began the journey across the one portion of Colorado I hadn’t been to since I was a small kid. Town like Rangely, Dinosaur, and White river flew past as we made our way towards Vernal, Utah where we had planned to re-fuel and grab some dinner. After a brief stop at a local brewery (duh!) we headed south towards the turnoff for Sand Wash launch Area. After about five miles, the road turned to dirt and the adventure really began. We spent the next 1.5hrs winding our way down from the top down to the bottom of this canyon. Eventually the road and the wash became one and we were deep in the heart of canyon country. Eventually after a mile or so, we turned a corner and arrived at the Sand Wash launch area.
We had booked a cabin through the BLM and quickly found it without a problem. Celebratory beers were cracked and bug juice was applied. We strolled down to the river to take a look, and were pleasantly surpised to find that we’d be able to back the trailer down to the water in the morning. A few more beers and sips of whiskey and we were off to sleep after a long day in the car.
We woke at 7:30 bright and early and were greeted within 15 minutes by the nicest volunteer ranger I’ve met on a river. She asked to see our required paperwork, leave-no-trace supplies, and safety equipment. It was quick, pleasant and informal. We had the permit in less than 10 minutes. That motivated us to get going and start the launching/loading process.
Thankfully with the low water, there was a large beach so that multiple boats could launch at the same time. We dropped our boats and gear and started the hour long process of getting everything ready. Once done, we moved the trucks and trailers to the parking area for River Runners Shuttle to come pick up later in the week. On our way back to the boats we ran into some people having issues with their trailer bearings. They wanted to flip one trailer on top of the other. We helped for 10 minutes, putting ourselves in far more danger than necessary, and eventually had to leave because no one was communicating or thinking through the physics of loading a 1000# trailer on top of another.
At 9:30 AM we pushed off the beach. It was a glorious feeling knowing we’d not be in cell phone or contact with civilization for 6 nights. Johnny, Joel, and I rowed for the first two miles as we watched cattle on the left bank and large birds of prey circle overhead. The sun was shining, there was no wind, and we were enjoying cold beers on a summer morning.
Life couldn’t get better. Eventually, we started up the small outboard motor I had brought to get past the flat water. We tied our boats together and proceeded to tool on down the canyons at a nice clip. On the way we saw wild horses, eagles, and cattle. Eventually we decided to stop for lunch on a sandbar in the middle of the river. We enjoyed a lunch of cold cuts, tortillas, chips and fruit. Johnny had brought some amazing Fruit Chews…now a river staple on my trips.
After lunch we motored off again. Not long after we’d left the outboard began to act up. It was only going at 50% power even when the throttle was fully engaged. We fiddled around with it and eventually got it to run better, but something was wrong with it. Around mid afternoon we stopped to see some petroglyphs at House Rock canyon. It was amazing seeing these engravings on the rock that were hundreds if not thousands of years old. The depiction of desert bighorn and elk was quite accurate.
Around 5:30pm started to get into Desolation Canyon proper. The walls rose and we were enveloped. We had planned on camping at Jack Creek. Thankfully the whole beach was empty, and not a soul was in sight, As we rowed into camp we were a little bit apprehensive as the ranger had warned of bears in the area. A few beers later, a great dinner of steak and potatoes was prepared. Everyone pitched in on cleaning up the dishes and getting the food squared away, so we wouldn’t encounter any bears. We traded stories about our lives, friends, family, and previous adventures over a few post-dinner cocktails. Eventually, we went to bed too late…
Day 2:
The morning came too early. Breakfast was cooked, coffee made, and camp packed up. One or two of us had mornings where we felt more rested, but the adventure down river was calling and we pushed off the beach around 9:30. Just a mile downstream was Mushroom Rock and its famous petroglyph panel. We pulled in as another party was packing up their camp. Just a short walk up the valley we found an otherworldly rock covered with all types of engravings of animals, human forms, and odd shapes. We spent time photographing the site and then headed off downstream. We had been rowing the whole day, as the canyon had narrowed and the current had improved. There were some small riffles we encountered, but no real rapids to speak of.
Lunch for the day was enjoyed at the Above Cedar Ridge campsite. It was a scorching hot day, and the shade here was plentiful and welcomed. The canyon was now deeper, with rugged dark orange cliffs festooned with pine trees top the top of the mesa. We eventually left the shade of the cottonwoods and pushed off downstream. We stopped at another petroglyph panel at Flat canyon. This panel had an amazing group of figures that looked to be out of this world.
Shortly after this side trip we encountered some stiff upstream breezes and began to be pelted by rain. The river bed was shallow in this section and we had to work hard to stay in the deepest channel with the wind pushing us around. At one point Joel and I had to hop out and drag our boat over a cobble bar. The brief monsoon storm hadn’t given us much in the way of rain, but it had made downstream travel difficult, so we decided to spend the evening on river right at Dripping Springs camp.
This camp was surrounded by beautiful cottonwood trees and a powdery white sandy beach. It’s only drawback was the area where we had to unload was cobblestones and somewhat steep. Joel, Johnny, and I made the effort and got everything unloaded quickly. Camp was set up and margaritas were on the menu for tonight. I spent some time trying to fish, while Joel and Johnny played a game of frisbee golf amongst the cottonwoods. Johnny cooked up his amazing sous-vide pork chops along with some asparagus and rice. More lies were told around the camp light this evening as the full moon rose to the south-east. Eventually it was time for bed.
I didn’t sleep that well this evening and kept waking up worried about bears. The best part of waking up though was observing the moon’s traverse across the top of the canyon walls to our south throughout the evening. Stars in this part of Utah remind me of the bubbles of CO2 on the side of a glass of coke: they are tiny specks everywhere one looks in the sky, even on a moonlit night.
Day 3:
Another beautiful morning came all too soon. We had a nice breakfast and were again on the water by 9:30-10. This day we kept seeing another boating party ahead of us. Since Desolation canyon is first-come first-serve on campsites we were hoping they wouldn’t grab out camp that we wanted. All day long the guidebook listed these class 2 and 3 rapids, but nothing even resembled more than and an easy 2. Fretwater falls, Wildhorse, Steer Ridge all were point and shoot down the tongue. The biggest issue on this trip was watching for barely submerged rocks at this lower flow. We had a wonderful pre-lunch stop at the Rock Creek Ranch. This place was so interesting with its decaying machinery and old bunk houses all built out of local sandstone. Whoever lived here in the past had a hardscrabble life, but likely one filled with the wonders of nature surrounding them daily.
Afternoon found us battling the wind a bit around three canyon. I hope one day to come back and hike this area as I can see on the map there’s an abandoned meander and an arch in the area which should be fun to explore. We had been following the other group throughout the day, and wanted to camp at Above Bull canyon, but as the day wore on I became worried they’d grab that spot and we’d end up having to push on past that site and out of Desolation Canyon. I really wanted to spend at least one more night in Deso. After going through the riffle at Chandler Falls, we spotted a wide beautiful beach at Chandler Canyon that looked like a perfect spot to camp. We beached the boats and enjoyed a celebratory cocktail. In short order, camp was set up and we began to enjoy the late afternoon sun and some more beverages. This led to a quick exploration of the area, We found some amazing things, which you’ll have to find for yourself. I don’t want to spoil the surprises for you.
Dinner was my Jambalaya and some frozen hurricanes. We had decided to do a layover camp here, so early rising wasn’t on the menu. We thoroughly enjoyed some light-up boccee ball after dark and also just spent time watching the stars and moon. Joel and I were both sleeping on Paco pads on the beach, but Johnny had brought a cot to stay above the sand. I planned to get one for the next trip, as the wind blew a bit that night and by morning my sleeping bag was filled with sand.
Day 4:
This campsite afforded up ample morning shade, and we slept in until 9. Slowly we got up, made coffee with baileys, and enjoyed smoked salmon, bagels and capers. Mid-morning found us repairing Joel’s sandals from yesterdays adventures and watching one group float by our camp (the last people we’d see until take-out). Eventually we set off on a hike up the canyon behind us. The left side of the river (the side we were on) is the tribal land of the northern Utes. We had gotten a permit to be on this side to the river. Chandler canyon is where an old rarely-used road comes down from the mesas above and eventually ends at a ranch along the river 8 miles downstream. We guessed that a vehicle hadn’t been down the canyon road in months, if not over a year. Getting away from the river corridor demonstrated how harsh and unforgiving this land is.
The brutal heat of afternoon was upon us as we walked the road for a few miles with no shade in sight. What little vegetation that did survive here was concentrated along the bottom of the canyon where a tiny stream flowed. We eventually made it to a stand of trees and had some snacks. We’d run out of beverages by this point, so we turned around to get back to camp and re-supply. Once back at camp we erected a giant shade tarp I’d borrowed and filled our mister and lazed away the afternoon doing nothing. Dinner this evening was Johnny’s amazing spaghetti and sausages. A welcome meal after exerting so much energy during the day.
Day 5:
I woke early this morning, filled with apprehension, as this was the day when we’d encounter some of the most significant rapids of the trip. I had read of mishaps on Joe Hutch rapids and didn’t want to experience it first hand. Only a mile or so after pushing off in the morning we abruptly were out of Desolation Canyon and starting to get into Gray canyon. The change is not subtle, as Desolation has high red and orange walls that go upwards over a thousand feet, while Grey canyon is as the name says, gray. The walls are farther off in the distance and less imposing.
After five miles, we beached the boats at the scout for Joe Hutch rapids. I was nervous, as I’d never taken my new boat through bigger rapids. It wasn’t hard to see the line, as there was only really one way to go with the water so low. My only concern was getting hung up on a submerged rock. Johnny quickly retreated to his boat, confident that his sister’s cataraft would make it down with his lower daft. I spent a minute or so more looking and watching him go through. His line was perfect, and with his nimble rowing, Johnny got into the eddy below easily. Back at the boat, we rigged to flip (lashing everything down tight), and tightened our PFD’s snug. I pushed off into the swift current and was able to easily make it to the line I had hoped to row down the rapid. Dropping in was uneventful and we barely got a splash over the bow. It was only the run out that proved to be problematic. My boat was loaded with a large portion of the group gear, and was therefore not as spry when moves needed to be made. Having passed the real meat of the rapids, my boat kept getting pushed towards some smaller rocks at the tail end. I back-rowed my hardest, but couldn’t help but kiss a few smaller rocks along the way. Eventually, the current hung me up, mid stream, against a small rock and on top of a submerged one. We spent a few minutes rocking and shifting our weight trying unsuccessfully to get off. I eventually had to get out of the boat and perched myself on the rock and began to push the boat. It pivoted into a position where I was downstream of the boat, not the ideal place to be. Eventually after a few hard strokes from Joel and me pushing, we came undone. Relief and exhaustion washed over me. It was definitely time for a cold celebratory beer.
Just over a mile downstream was McPhereson ranch. This place is deep with history. It was founded by the McPhereson family, who built these amazing stone houses out of the local sandstone. The corner lines and walls are still dead-nuts straight after multiple decades exposed to the elements. They built these by hand, but whoever did the work was a true craftsman, These structures stand in stark contrast to the other structures on the old ranch. The more modern structures were built by the Ute tribe some time in the 1970’s for a hunting lodge. These abandoned concrete monstrosities are is disrepair and the inside is littered with old beer bottles, broken beer coolers and a decaying bar. The guest rooms are still adorned with ‘lovely’ plywood paneling and reek of mouse urine. Out back there’s an old generator, fuel tank, and decaying horse corral: all signs of a more recent history that has been discarded wantonly. This ranch marks the end of the road that comes down from Chandler Canyon our previous nights camp. We enjoyed lunch on the beach and then pushed off towards the final rapids of consequence for the trip: Wire fence and Three Fords.
Joel displayed his rowing skills through both these rapids, while I tried filming. The line through these two rapids is the same as every other on this trip: straight down the tongue, avoiding rocks to the sides. The current slowed noticeably after these features and we found ourselves having to decide which way to go around small islands in the river.
On the one right hand bend before Range Creek Rapid, we chose incorrectly and spent far too much time rowing flat water only to get around the island and have to ping pong our way through 6″ of water and barely submerged rocks. Joel was on the oars and we eventually got past the small rapid and landed at the beach below. We chose this for our camp, and we weren’t disappointed. While we set up the kitchen along the water’s edge, the sandy area behind offered numerous private spots to pitch a tent. I just dragged my pad over to a nice spot and claimed it for the evening. As we enjoyed afternoon cocktails, I figured I might as well try to catch some fish. I baited my hook with the remnants of the bagels from breakfast and promptly caught a fish. I spent the better part of an hour catching one catfish after another. They all got thrown back, but I was wondering when the fish were going to catch on and stop biting. They never tired of it, but I eventually did.
We hadn’t seen a person in over 24 hours and we were glad for the experience. Joel, Johnny and I had our camp routine down to a science. We conversed easily and all chipped in where necessary. Tonight Joel whipped up some amazing burgers for us. More whiskey and tequila was enjoyed after dishes were done, and lies were told along the water’s edge. I long for these simple days.
Day 6:
We enjoyed sleeping in a bit, as today’s agenda was simple: row downstream, eat lunch, camp, drink beer. This would be our last evening on the river, so we weren’t in any rush. Once we pushed off we meandered downstream at a leisurely pace. Eventually we came to an old stone cabin on river left. We explored, but found it to be significantly less interesting than the others we’d seen upstream.
We passed some desert bighorn sheep in the afternoon, and enjoyed watching them frolic on the shoreline. The camps n this area were lovely beaches and any would have made for a great campsite. The named rapids on this stretch were merely riffles, barely warranting an oar stroke to stay on course.
Early afternoon we passed Rattlesnake rapid and had found ourselves at Nefertiti rock. This beach would become our home for the night. Nefertiti is where the day trippers from Green river come to start their trips. We saw no people, but man’s presence was evident because this beach had a bit more micro-trash and a permanently installed toilet was installed up on the hill. Joel, Johnny and I each chose to go explore the area on our own. The guys went up the canyon behind camp, and I started hiking up the ridge. After 30 minutes of continuous climbing I was stopped by the sheer cliffs above. I cracked a cold beer and just enjoyed the serenity of the place. The sun was in the golden hour and I was at peace, looking upstream at the river we had spent the last 6 days exploring. Life was good.
Dinner was steaks again, YUM. By this time, our alcohol supplies had dwindled, so we decided to not finish the trip with any left. This meant we spent the better part of the evening polishing off luke-warm beers, tequila, whiskey, vodka, and whatever else was stashed in the dry boxes. It was a fun night to say the least.
Day 7:
Shade was abundant again at this camp due to the steep canyon walls, a welcome relief after last night’s revelry. We slowly got ourselves motivated and pushed off downstream. The mood of the group had changed as the scenery opened up and changed. I was sad the trip was coming to an end. Others were excited to get back into contact with friends and family to share the experience. I was content letting the current take us to the final destination, and eventual ending of the trip. Anytime I dipped the oars, I knew it meant we’d be closer to ending the trip by only a few seconds. I wanted the feeling to last forever. Shortly after noon, we saw our first people in 4 days: a couple was having a picnic lunch along the sandy shore. A few bends in the river later, we saw Swasey’s beach come into view. This was to be the end of the trip and it was bittersweet for me.
We beached, unloaded all the boats, floated the rafts onto their trailers and threw all our empty cans in the lovely aluminum recycling box the BLM provides. The trip was over. We drove back into Green River a few miles downstream. I was in a mild state of shock, as I hadn’t moved at this speed for a week. Power poles and farm machinery seemed out of place for once. We stopped at a Mexican restaurant for an enjoyable meal we didn’t have to cook 🙂 Johnny was heading part way back to Colorado, so we said our good byes and wished him a safe drive. Joel and I had booked a room in town, as I know how difficult it is to travel on the interstate after a long river trip. We thoroughly enjoyed a shower, cooling A/C and then a welcome burger and fries at Ray’s Tavern. Sleep was easy that night.
Green River beta for this trip:
- Launch: July 27, 2018 from Sand Wash at 2000 CFS
- Takeout: August 2nd at 2000 CFS
- Shuttle Service: River Runner’s Shuttles out of Vernal, UT
- Gas used: under 5 gallons, even with motor problems
- Water Used: 15 gallons +-
- Beer: 12/day per person
- Propane: 3-5#
- Campsites: Jack Creek #2, Dripping Springs, Chandler Canyon, Range Creek, Nefertiti